Hotel Bijela Kuća commands the best views in Bol. Perched above a small pebbly beach on the eastern edge of town, it enjoys uninterrupted vistas across across dazzling azure waters to the wooded hills of Hvar, just to the south.

You can’t stay there, sadly. It was abandoned when tourists stopped coming to the island of Brać during the Balkan Wars. In the early nineties it was used to house refugees. But when the war ended and they moved on, it was stripped of anything valuable and left to fall into disrepair.

There’s always talk of it reopening, I was told. But a dispute with the Dominican Monks in the nearby monastery is complicating negotiations. The hotel had originally been a Dominican school, you see, and the monks were forced to sell it by greedy Communist officials keen to turn a quick profit.

Now the monks want it back.

In the meantime, the ruins provide an atmospheric canvas for street art, painted by artists who gather here every July for Graffiti Na Gradele.

For five days each year the hotel becomes a hive of activity.  Streets artists come from all over the world to paint over last year’s efforts and create new masterpieces of their own. There are workshops for local kids, Hip-Hop concerts and even rap battles.

And then the hotel goes silent again, but for the sound of a breeze murmuring in the pine trees.

And the monks chanting in their 12th century chapel at the end of the beach.

  1. Hi
    I worked at the hotel in the mid 1980s.
    I worked for Yugotours as a resident entertainer,I have such fond memories of the place and people ,be nice to chat some time


  2. We stayed in the building when it was a hotel in about 1976 or 77. Its a shame to see that it has fallen into disrepair. It is in a magical location, we had a wonderful time there. We travelled with Yugotours, the country was still Yougoslavia at the time. I hope it gets turned back into a hotel at some point, its a shame it lays empty and unloved.

    1. Hi Paul,

      There are plans to redevelop, apparently. They just need to sort things out with the monks. Like you said, it would be a shame for such a magical location to got to waste.

  3. We stayed there for 10 days in 1988 when Yugoslavia was so inexpensive it was difficult to spend your money. Sad to see it disused, we had a really nice time there, we were a young family with a 2 year old and Bol was magical.

    1. Hi Paul,

      It is sad to see the place abandoned, but I hear there are plans to resurrect it. Bol itself, however, remains just as magical. A little more developed than when you visited, I suspect, but I visited out of season and it was very chilled.

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